Clingmans Dome - 9/4/11

Clingman's Dome Access Trail
Out and Back
0.5 miles each way
Very Steep

Clingman's Dome is the highest peak in Tennessee and the highest point on the Appalachian Trail.  My first trip to Clingman's Dome was when I was about six years old.

At least, that's the first trip I remember. I don't really remember the actual summit all that much, but on the way back down Clingman's Dome Road, my dad saw a sign on the side of the road that said, "Noland Divide Trail. Deep Creek Campground. 16 miles". (The sign is different now)

Being that it was only a little after lunch and we had no food, water, maps, or supplies of any other sort, my dad thought it would be great fun to walk back to Deep Creek Campground where we were camping. When I say we, I mean him, my mom, my two older brothers (early teens), and myself. The people who were camping with us obviously agreed with his sentiment and it was settled. They drove the car back to the campground, and we set out into the wilderness. My memory of that hike involve my dad singing to "sooth the savage bears", a couple of hikers who gave me some cheese and water (did I mention we had no supplies?), nearly losing the trail because it became so faint (did I mention we had no map?), it getting dark while we were still in the woods (did I mention we had no supplies? Flashlights, anyone? Nope!), and the headlights of the rangers out looking for us when we got to Deep Creek Trail. Looking at maps now, either the Nolan Divide Trail didn't come all the way down to the campground as it does now, or we took a wrong turn at the only intersection on the entire trail and ended up on Deep Creek Trail (Map? NO! We didn't need no stinking map!). At the time, I was scared, hungry, tired, and lost. But it was my first great adventure. Sadly, there have not been enough of them in the years since then. I hope to instill that same sense of adventure in my youngest boys, but with better preparation.

A few years back, I hiked the Nolan Divide Trail with my son Chuck. It is one of my favorite memories with him. I wish we'd gone a little slower. I wish we'd walked the extra 1/4 mile to Lonesome Pine Overlook. I wish we'd gotten a better view of the bear cubs we flushed out. (They tell you bears run fast, but until you see it in person, in the woods, you have no concept of it). I wish I'd known about blister prevention. But live and learn, right?

This past Labor Day weekend, Kristina and I took the boys camping at Deep Creek. Sunday morning, we took the boys and went to Clingman's Dome. The drive up is always fun for me. I like curvy roads. After turning on Clingman's Dome Road, we saw a bear. It was a scrawny looking bear, but it was a bear. The boys thought that was very cool, but Kristina was really excited about this. She always likes to see unusual animals, except snakes. We stopped in the road for a while took some pictures. Then we ended up turning around and driving back to where it was three times before it disappeared into the woods. Kristina mentioned the bear to the volunteer in the gift shop and he said he had seen a whole group of them on the way in that morning. Here are a few pictures...

We were early enough in the day to get a decent parking spot. We got out, made use of the privy's, and then went toward the trail. Trail... This is hardly a "trail." It's a paved road all the way to the top of the mountain. But you do have to walk it, so I guess technically, it's a trail...At the corner of the parking area, there is a mound of rocks. The boys and I spent a few minutes climbing around on the rocks. Conner had a blast doing this, but Elijah only went up about ten feet and parked himself. He wouldn't go any higher.

Then we hiked up the hill. Kristina (me, too) made use of every single bench. I'm not sure how many there were, but we sat on all of them. Kristina commented that she didn't feel so bad after seeing the teenagers and young adults who were struggling just as much as she was. A couple times, I put my hand on her back and helped her walk. At least, I hope it helped. She never said it didn't. Elijah, of course, wanted to stop and rest, but it's funny. When we stopped to rest, him and Conner would start climbing the bank of the trail.

We saw bear scat during one rest. It was just off the trail near the trees. There's no way we would see a bear with so many people around, but it was cool to know they were there.

After what I'm sure was an eternity for Kristina (and Elijah), we made it to the top of the hill.

Actually, I have to brag on Kristina. She's not a hiker. It's just not her thing. But she never complained, and she did really well walking up this extremely steep hill. She was a good sport all day except when I suggested hiking to GA or Maine on the AT. More on that later...

We made our way up the concrete ramp to the Dome. There were a lot of clouds so the views weren't spectacular, but it was still very nice.

The boys got bored pretty quick, so we took some pictures and then made our way back down. Here's some pictures from the trail...

I have to say that the trip down the hill was much easier than the trip up the hill was. Imagine that! We even skipped a couple benches on the way back down.

We stopped at the gift shop and bought the boys a couple stuffed bears. Elijah named his Berry Bear. Conner named his Bryson Bear.Conner and I climbed on the rocks some more while Elijah sat about ten feet up and waited.

When we left, there was a line of cars circling the parking area waiting for a place to park and people were parking a half mile down the road and walking up. It definitely pays to get there before noon. The earlier the better... especially if you hope to see bears.

Update: (10/14/2011)
A recent conversation with my wife about hiking trails revealed the truth about this trip.  She told me that all the way up the hill she wanted to put her hands around my neck and squeeze till I died.  (I may be exaggerating, but not much.)  Guess she wasn't having as much fun as I thought she was.